Let's Discover the Dingle Peninsula and beyond

The Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry in the province of Munster is a piece of absolute beauty in a country that has no shortage of beautiful spots. The peninsula is a combination of rough sea eroded cliffs, mountains, beaches and offshore islands which are all interwoven with traditionally small Irish villages. You could easily pass a day, a week or a month driving around the Dingle Peninsula absorbing everything you see. No visit to Ireland is complete without seeing the Dingle Peninsular.

The closest airport to the Dingle Peninsula is Kerry Airport in Farranfore with domestic flights from  Dublin, and international flights from London Stanstead, Manchester, Liverpool, Frankfurt Hahn and Lorient. If you are coming from other international locations you may have to use Cork Airport. Another possibility, although a little further away, is to use Shannon Airport. Cars can be hired at all three airports.  There is also an option to hire a car with driver to meet you and take you to your destination. These same cars may be hired to ferry you about the peninsula if you wish, although this choice will likely depend on how much travelling you have to do, and how dependent you choose to be on another driver. One popular feature of driven cars, of course, is that your driver is willing and eager to act as a tour guide, and some car services actually have an option to pay for just such a tour on top of your car hire charge.

There are two main roads into the peninsula: The N86 which runs from Tralee, along the south coast of Tralee Bay, through Camp village, then over the mountains to Annascaul, Lispole and Dingle. The other, more picturesque route is the R561, which runs from Castlemaine, where it connects to roads from Kerry Airport, Killarney and the Ring of Kerry. The road runs along the north side of Castlemaine Harbour, to Inch and then via a cliff top road to join the N86 just west of Annascaul.

We visited the Dingle Peninsula during a very dull, wet week in late August 2008.  The locals were complaining that they had no summer at all that year.  One man in particular that we spoke to released that this was part of a wider global climate change trend.  He told us that the Irish climate had been growing increasingly wet and warm for several years.  Snow in winter had been the norm but he had seen none so far this century.  Of course we had been following the weather forecasts with foreboding ever since booking but came anyway.  We are so glad that we did.  There are lots of places around the world where you can enjoy sunshine but where else but here could we have had the majestic views of the clouds descending in drifts over the mountains.  And when the sun did poke through it really took our breath away.  If the weather is still rough when you intend coming, please don't chicken out.  Some landscapes really do look better this way.  We shall be back when the sun returns though. 

The Dingle Peninsula is one of the few thriving Gealteacht (Irish speaking) communities left in Ireland and many Irish school children come here during the summer to learn their national language. For the children, this is as much an educational trip as a social exercise. The Irish language is a type of Gaelic but is not the same as that spoken in Scotland. While its great to see the Irish language kept alive this can pose extra challenges for the visitor.  Ireland is officially a bilingual country (Irish and English) but here most of the place name signs are in Irish only.  As many of the maps and guidebooks give only the English (anglicised) names getting around can be a bit of a nightmare.  And to confound the situation even further, there seems to be little agreement concerning the spellings of Irish place names.  We even found cases where a name had been spelt as two separate words in one book and as three words in another.  So in this guide I will try to give as many possible variations as possible.  You can also follow the hyperlinks to maps provided by Goole Maps, Mapquest, Multimap and others.  I can take no responsibility for the accuracy of internet maps, they are good servants but very bad masters. In particular I have notices that Tralee appears in totally the wrong place on some of them. Please use theses maps with care. 

What part of Ireland is more of a walkers’ paradise than the Dingle Peninsula? The Dingle Peninsula boasts a sumptuous network of lanes, paths and treks that take the hiker well away from the hum of traffic to the sweet solitude that is offered by the Dingle country side. The sweep of the emerald green hills, the steep cut of the Dingle cliffs, the majesty of mountains, the tranquillity of the beaches and the crash and swell of the sea. Dingle really is a haven for lovers of nature, and a paradise for those who yearn to walk through it.

In particular there are two walking tracks that are popular with locals and visitors alike. These are The Dingle Way, which is 178 kilometres in length and features many coastal views, and the Pilgrims’ Route, which is much shorter at just 48 kilometres and makes more of a fine hike between many of the archaeological sites for which Dingle is so famous.  These two paths are well waymarked and relatively easy to follow.  There are lots of other, less well marked tracks too of course. As is common sense for any walk, wear comfortable, sturdy footwear and lightweight, insulating clothing. A light, waterproof coat is advisable as the weather can turn quickly and without much warning. 

Horse riders are well catered for too.  There are several stables in the area which cater for groups and riders of every level of experience. The treks along the Irish hills will awe the riders with their beauty.  You will experience a fresh appreciation for all of nature in its most earthly glories. Through the simple pleasure of riding you will come to feel even more connected with, and rooted in, the sumptuous landscape all around you.

If the simple pace of a horse trek is not to your taste, why not pick up the pace a bit with a cycling excursion? Dingle offers many of these, and many tracks on which to engage in them. Or if you prefer you can stick to paved roads, but either way you will not lack for choices in route or in scenery. Pack a picnic on your bike, if you choose, and make an even longer day of it. Without spoiling the tranquillity with the sound of a car motor, you can really get in touch with the nature all around you.

Dingle (Irish: An Daingean or Daingean Uí Chúis - Coordinates: 52° 8' 27" North, 10° 16' 8" West) is a town on the Atlantic coast some 50 kilometres west-south-west of Tralee and 80 kilometres west-north-west of Killarney. The town is situated on a natural harbour below Slievanea mountain.  The town is packed with character. It nestles cosily in a comfortable, sheltered harbour and is primarily a working harbour town.

The people of Dingle have long made their livelihood from farming and fishing and you will see a large number of fishing boats in Dingle Harbour.

There are only three main streets in Dingle Town, and a population of just twelve hundred, although you will find that many people from the surrounding areas make the journey to town to trade or take advantage of the amenities. Dingle has a great number of pubs, currently about fifty. For other amusements and amenities, there are a good selection of shops that sell all of life’s daily requirements, though very few luxuries.

If you're looking for a place to grab a bite to eat, then in Dingle you will find yourself spoiled for choice! Here you can enjoy the best of Irish sea food washed down with a pint of Guinness in a traditional Irish bar. There is a wide variety of restaurants and eateries in Dingle offering a whole assortment of delicacies both local and from farther a field. The chief appeal of the Dingle restaurants is a combination of factors. Not only does Dingle boast some of the most mouth watering seafood you will have the pleasure of sampling in Ireland but it also prides itself on retaining strong ties to its roots, and the heritage of old Ireland.  This means that to walk into a Dingle pub or restaurant is not just to step into an establishment where you will find yourself welcomed and well fed but it also means that you will have the pleasure of hearing patrons conversing with the proprietors in their old language. Irish is spoken freely in Dingle, which is an especial draw for all cultural enthusiasts as well as interested historians and the just plain curious. You can't walk into a pub without hearing Irish spoken, and the thrill of the experience is reason enough to try.  Of course, the food is also exceptional. Try some of the sumptuous seafood, or some of the other traditional Irish dishes served in the pubs and restaurants. The pub has for a long time served as the centre of Irish social life, and in Dingle you will find that this still holds true. The restaurants and pubs alike serve good, filling food and the atmosphere is that of real Ireland. Come along inside for the pleasures of the food and the drink, and stay for the warm welcome and good company.

Most Dingle pubs have live traditional Irish music in the evenings, at least in the summer months, starting about 9:30 or 10:00.  Do listen to the words, you will learn a lot about Irish culture and history and about the very real national integrity and identity issues which still concern them. If you just want to talk please sit far away from the band so that others can enjoy the music.

Additionally, the summer months see an influx of tourists who come to enjoy the simple charm and beauties of the area.  Indeed the town now relies heavily on tourist revenue and over the past few decades, tourism has become an increasingly important business. 

Dingle’s most famous resident is Fungi the bottle-nosed dolphin who lives in the harbour. He rarely fails to show and there are several boats that sell tickets to visit Fungi every day.  Nobody seems to know why just one wild dolphin has chosen to remain alone in the bay but he had been there since the 1980's

With such a beautiful, natural sweeping landscape as is offered on the Dingle Peninsula, it should come as no surprise to learn that outdoor sporting activities of all sorts are extremely popular with locals and tourists alike. Visitors will be spoiled for choice when they come to visit Dingle, and you will be pleased to find that no matter what outdoor, sporting pursuit most appeals to you, you will be able to find it or something like it available in or around Dingle.

Dingle is a lovely place with plenty of peaceful attractions, but it can also rise to the occasion of accommodating a young and boisterous family as well, if need be. The Irish people have a lovely, friendly, familial culture, and your children are sure to take great pleasure in immersing themselves in even the simplest of pleasures. Whether you choose to take the family out for a picnic, or perhaps want to go down to the harbour to watch the fishing boats, or simply take the children on an energetic nature walk to encourage them to blow off a little steam, you are bound to find something to delight your entire group.

A mere five miles to the west of Dingle village there is a lovely family attraction for animal lovers. Scanlon’s Pet Farm offers breathtaking views of the country all around, and adults are sure to appreciate it for its aesthetic virtues alone. Children will also delight in the assortment of simple farm life they can come into contact with; geese, hens, pigs, rabbits and even peacocks abound at this lovely area, as well as many other little creatures. You will find guided tours are available as well as a picnic and rest area, toilets, and a refreshment counter.

Also located close to Dingle is the Louis Mulcahy Pottery Workshop and Free Visitor Centre. Louis Mulcahy’s pottery is produced here, and a section of Mr Mulcahy’s workshop has been devoted to the amusement of visitors who want the chance to try their hand at the art. Children will delight in the tactile experience, and adults may be surprised at the degree of talent their little ones can display!

The Slea Head Drive (Irish: Slí Cheann Sléibhe) is a circular scenic route which takes in a large number of attractions and stunning views on the western end of the peninsula. The route is clearly labelled by road signs throughout its length. To properly enjoy the drive at least half a day should be set aside. You may prefer to travel clockwise in order to avoid the large tour buses that frequent the route during the summer months. The route is suitable for both motorists and cyclists.  It is possible to hire a bike at a number of locations in Dingle.

On leaving Dingle, pass over Milltown Bridge, past the woodlands at Burnham

Burnham House is the former home of the late Lord Ventry.  It has a fine collection of Ogham Stones. Also visit Esk Tower, locally known as the Burnham Tower.

Ventry (Coordinates: 52° 7' 57" North, 10° 22' 1" West) is a lovely seaside village at the foot of Eagle Mountain. The long, curved strand at Ventry is a blue flag beach and offers a safe venue for bathing and water sports.  From Ventry the drive continues west past Dunbeg Fort.

Dunbeg Promontory Fort is an Iron age fort overlooking Ventry Bay.

You will now continue the route with a sheer cliff on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. At Fahan the road crosses a ford. The drive now reaches Slea Head itself, marked by a stone Christian crucifixation scene, with dramatic views to South Kerry and the Blasket Islands.  The route now follows the coast north, past Coumenoole Strand.

Coumineol Strand lies just below the Slea Head Route is an unspoilt, beachy cove, and also the site of four Spanish Armada ships which were wrecked in 1588. Here some of the filming of Ryan's Daughter took place.

So now on to Dunquin. (Irish: Dún Chaoin - coordinates: 52° 7' 53" North, 10° 27' 26" West). It is possible to board a passenger ferry to the island of Great Blasket (Coordinates: 52.09583 North, 10.54083 West) from Dún Chaoin pier.

Graigue (Coordinates: 52° 9' 0" North, 10° 27' 42" West) was the location of the Tom Cruise film "Far and away"

Clogher Strand lies two miles before Ballyferriter village. This beach focuses the beauty of the area into one beautiful sandy enclave with unique currents producing spectacular seas.

The drive now continues north and east through wild open countryside, moving inland to the village of Ballyferriter (Irish: Baile an Fheirtéaraigh). The village has a number of bars, a shop and is the site of the Corca Dhuibhne Regional Museum.

The Drive now turns eastward, passing close to a number of ancient monuments, such as the excavated early Christian site at Reasc, and the Gallarus Oratory. 

Gallarus Oratory, just outside Gallarus village, dates from the 7th or 8th century. Gallarus is a fine example of a Christian cell, using corbelled stone, the cell is as dry inside as the day it was completed

Soon you will come to the fishing village of Ballydavid (Irish: Baile na nGall). On leaving the village the drive again follows a cliff-top route, with a dramatic seascape of crashing waves, rocks and seabirds below. At Feohanagh (Irish: An Fheothanach) a bridge is crossed and the route brings you to Brandon Creek (Irish: Cuas an Bhodaigh). This inlet was the legendary starting point of the voyage of St. Brendan to America, centuries before Columbus.

The Drive now turns south and runs along the base of Mount Brandon, the second highest mountain in Ireland. One of the pilgrimage routes to the mountain's summit begins near here. The Drive now rejoins the main road south to Dingle, passing over a hill's crest at Ballinlochaigh and arriving back at the entrance to the town.

Connor Pass (Irish: An Chonair) is the old mountain road between Dingle and Tralee which offers spectacular views over the peninsula. This is a small winding road that is simply magnificent no matter what the weather conditions. If you are lucky enough to get a nice day, there are some great places to get out of the car and stretch your legs. It is the highest mountain pass in Ireland, and provides the most dramatic and scenic way of entering or leaving Dingle. This narrow, twisting road runs between the town of Dingle and Kilmore Cross on the north side of the peninsula, where roads fork to Cloghane/Brandon or Castlegregory. The views from the road are breathtaking, as the glaciated landscape of mountains and corrie lakes comes into view. From the scenic car park at the summit there are views as far as the Aran Islands off County Galway. Due to the nature of the road, there are length and weight restrictions, and vehicles such as caravans, camper vans and trucks cannot use the pass.

Blasket Islands (Irish: Na Blascaoidí) - Among the most beautiful things about the Dingle Peninsula are the Blasket Islands to the west of Slea Head, which hold a certain mystic for a lost way of life in Ireland. This largest of this group of Islands, Great Blasket (Irish: An Blascaod Mór) was inhabited until 1953. Many of Ireland's great Gaelic literary figures were born and raised on Great Blasket. These Islands were inhabited until the 1950s, when the decline in fish stocks and government and international quotas, forced the last few remaining inhabitants to leave.  The islands are now a tourist attraction and a place of absolute beauty and worthy of an article in their own right. As the sun sets off the west coast of Ireland, the Blasket Islands are a truly unique sight.

Beehive Huts - At one stage there were over 400 of these dry stone, corbelled huts surviving, prompting one antiquarian in the 19th century to refer to the area as the "City of Fahan". These structures occur as single units or can also be found within stone fort complexes. They are generally believed to have been habitation sites, although the tradition of such buildings continued up to the early 20th century for storage purposes. Dating the huts is difficult because the skill of corbelling has been used in Newgrange (3100 BC) and as recently as the 1950s. The huts along the Slea Head Drive may well date to the 12th century when the incoming Normans forced the Irish off the good land and out to the periphery of the peninsula
 

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